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Isekai Is Dead – Why the Genre Lost Its Charm and Became a Transnational Golden Calf.

In the vast collection of light novels, web comics, manga and anime, isekai rose to popularity as technology advanced, introducing newer forms of entertainment. However, is the surge of countless adaptations every season is relevant today? Kadokawa executives saw isekai as a profitable source for global revenue, noting how COVID-19 impacted its growth. 1Despite their successful campaigns like partnerships with Crunchyroll that bridged foreign and Japanese markets amidst the pandemic, why do producers continue recycling similar material? Because isekai today lost its otherworldly charm and become the industry’s money-making Golden Calf. The article will highlight why in three ways: 1) isekai was a fantasy plot device that changed when 2) web novel sites established methods of production and distribution for ambitious amateur writers who were influenced by 3) newer technologies in video gaming. 1) Isekai As a Fantasy Plot Device Isekai is defined a “Japanese genre of science or fantasy fiction featuring a protagonist who is transported to or reincarnated in a different, strange, or unfamiliar world.” (Oxford English Dictionary, 2018). As the word (異世界)means “other/strange world,” setting is the key focus. Genres like fantasy for instance revolve around how a character is transported from a primary world like ours toward a secondary world governed by laws that defy nature, filled with elements like magic and monsters. 2 Whether this isekai is a different realm altogether (high-fantasy) or hidden in a recognizable one (low-fantasy) what is important is the character’s movement between worlds. Examples in classic literature abound both in the East and West, from Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland, The Divine Comedy to Bocchan. The mythological universe also has this focus on movement. Frye describes that throughout four levels (heaven, paradise, the ordinary world, the demonic world) characters descend from one to another due to a break, lapse or loss. 3 These could be a disappearance, death or drastic shift in time. The character falls to a lower world that is strange, magical, or even hellish. Depending on the narrative, characters are equipped with tools that aid them in breaking a spell that prevents them from returning to their world. The story concludes with characters regaining what was lost (e.g. memory, power, a loved one). In short, isekai stems from fantasy plot structure, but how it evolved in the age of the internet is noteworthy. 2) Journey Toward the Narōkei Boom Self-published web novels have a long history in Japan. Before the isekai wave in the late 2000s however, amateur writers who found prominence did exist. An early example is TYPE-MOON’s Kinoko Nasu, the master behind Fate/Stay night. His novel Kara no Kyōkai: Garden of Sinners (1998) was both posted on his blog and sold at Comiket, yet its serialization of mystery magazine Faust propelled him to a lifetime partnership with anime studio Ufotable, turning his circle into a billion-dollar video game company. 4 Kodansha, a reputed publisher for famous light novel series, later released hardcopies of Kara no Kyōkai in 2004. The trend of doujin titles finding mainstream success is no surprise. Before landing in publishing houses, isekai are released as web novels. Since its launch in 2004, 小説家になろう (shōsetsuka ni narō), is a self-publishing website considered the hotbed for famous titles such as That Time I Got Reincarnated as a Slime, Re:Zero – Starting Life in Another World, and Mushoku Tensei. Serialized weekly, users log on to read and comment on chapters for free. As readership grows, editors directly contact web authors to pick up their titles, giving publishers distribution rights. As hardcopies rack sales, anime producers buy licensing for adaptions while sponsors manufacture goods or merchandise. Authors also write exclusively for the publisher years after their works have been distributed through them, maintaining a dedicated fanbase for decades. But what continues to fuel this entire process are the tried-and-tested conventions that established isekaias a genre of its own. 2.1) How To Get Transported into Another World In the surge of texts present in the mid to late 2000s, elements were constantly shared between different releases, mostly due to stories fighting for the number one spot with often bizarre premises, e.g. Reborn as a Vending Machine, I Now Wander the Dungeon (2016). What brings them together however are the ways protagonists move between worlds. First, 召喚 (shōkan, summon) is the most recognizable, 5 with an emphasis on entrapment by a spell. Essentially, the protagonist is summoned toanother world, unable to leave unless they complete their quest, as in The Rising of The Shield Hero (2017). Similarly, 転移 (teni, transference) 6 is movement through space and time by magical or technological means. In Re:Zero, transference occurs in a single step; Subaru steps into another world that begins his journey to free himself from a curse. Entrapment even happens in the body, where the soul is reincarnated  転生  (tensei) 7 into another living or non-living body. Characters often experience a tragic death (accidental or self-inflicted) and are whisked into another realm depicted as much more ideal compared to their dreary, depressing original world. Works like Mushoku Tensei showcase Rudeus’ path of self-renewal when reincarnated as an infant. Ascendence of a Bookworm (2013)also features the protagonist’s rebirth, infancy and adulthood. Other instances have characters become goblins in Re:Monster (2010), weapons in Reincarnated as a Sword (2015) or magicians in I Was Reincarnated as the 7th Prince So I Can Take My Time Perfecting My Magical Ability (2019). Another trend these works share is that characters are granted powerful skills that help them overcome any foe that comes their way. 2.2) Overpowered Web-Novel Protagonists Narōkei isekai not only popularized the earlier subtypes but have established conventions of their own. Chiefly, protagonists are equipped with magical tools or skills to cease a calamity or slay a un/godly being. Secondary worlds are substantially different from our own, typically being perilous, unjust and cruel. Villains are monstrous, corrupt and foul creatures of mass destruction, backed by forces that are equally detestable, often influencing the hero/heroine’s ranks. What is clear is that the protagonist’s weapons

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Tanabata: The Star-Crossed Folklore of Love and Longing

July. It’s that strange halfway point in the year where we all start asking ourselves the same thing:“Wait… how is it July already?” For many of us, this is the month where resolutions start feeling distant, motivation dips, and our to-do lists start looking eerily similar to the ones from March. But July isn’t just a marker of time passed—it’s also a perfect moment to pause, reflect, and realign. And if you need inspiration to do that, Japan has just the story for you: Tanabata (七夕). Every year on July 7th, people across Japan celebrate Tanabata, the “Star Festival,” based on the romantic legend of two star-crossed lovers, Orihime and Hikoboshi, who are separated by the Milky Way and allowed to meet only once a year. It’s a story about dedication, longing, and patience—values that speak just as loudly in language learning as they do in love. The Tale of Orihime and Hikoboshi In the heavens, Orihime (織姫); the Weaving Princess; was the daughter of Tentei, the Sky King. She spent her days weaving beautiful fabrics along the banks of the Amanogawa, or River of Heaven; what we call the Milky Way. Her weavings were so fine, so luminous, that the gods themselves adorned the skies with her work. But Orihime was lonely. Concerned for his daughter’s happiness, Tentei introduced her to Hikoboshi (彦星), the Cowherd Star, who lived on the opposite side of the Amanogawa. The moment their eyes met, the two fell hopelessly in love. Their joy, however, became their undoing. So enamored were they with each other that Orihime stopped weaving, and Hikoboshi let his celestial herd wander. The Sky King, angered by their neglect of duty, separated them; placing them on opposite ends of the Milky Way. But even his heart softened at the sight of his daughter’s tears. And so, he allowed them one night a year; the seventh day of the seventh lunar month; to meet, if the skies were clear. If it rains on that night, however, the lovers must wait another year. A Festival Written in the Stars Tanabata is not just a tale of love; it is a reflection of deeply held values in Japanese culture: duty, discipline, longing, and perseverance. Orihime and Hikoboshi are not punished for love, but rather reminded that love must coexist with purpose. Their reunion is brief, but it is made meaningful because they endure the wait. During Tanabata, people write their wishes on tanzaku; narrow strips of colorful paper; and hang them on bamboo branches, along with origami decorations. These wishes are often for self-improvement, dreams for the future, or hopes for love, echoing the spirit of the two stars in the sky. Kyoto, Sendai, and other cities host spectacular Tanabata festivals, where glowing lanterns, yukata-clad crowds, and street parades bring this celestial legend to life. Why This Story Still Matters Tanabata’s legend may be over a thousand years old, but its themes feel timeless. In a world where everything is instant, the idea of waiting a whole year for something—or someone—you love is profound. It’s a story about dedication, restraint, and holding on to hope, even across vast distances. For those learning Japanese, the story of Tanabata offers more than cultural insight; it mirrors the journey of language acquisition itself. Like Orihime and Hikoboshi, learners must work, wait, and stay the course, trusting that their persistence will lead to a moment of clarity, connection, and joy. The Milky Way may seem like a vast divide; but once a year, even stars can meet. This Tanabata, try writing your own tanzaku. What do you wish for in your learning journey? What are you hoping to weave into your future? Hang it on a plant, pinboard, or window; and let it remind you that every small step is part of a longer path, guided by stars.

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Movie Review – THE DARK maternity of dark water (2002)

In the grim milieu of Japan’s post-economic bubble era, a surge of horror films released shaped their narratives around prevailing issues related to family, specifically between parent and child. Aside from Ring (1998), Nakata Hideo Dark Water (2002) is exemplarily here in that symbolic violence recalls itself through disrupting semiotics associated with water. Water as vital source of life signifies death. Motherhood is also symbolized similarly, acting as an inhibiting force toward female independence. This essay shall argue how maternity in Dark Water aligns with traditional values and that the protagonist’s acceptance of her role was an attempt at solving decaying family structures in Japan. An overview of the post-bubble era will describe how such issues arose. Later, water’s symbolism culturally specific to Japan will be discussed, tying it with the film’s supernatural events. To begin, Japan’s post economic bubble period after 1995 was marked by soaring debt, tax hikes and devastating class division that left the country in deep recession (Preyde, 2019: 34, 37, 40). Amidst the horrors of the Tokyo subway sarin attack, the Great Hanshin Earthquake, and the “otaku” child killer, reactionary widespread consumerism took momentum. As newer technologies were rapidly introduced, there began a “solitary absorption of electronic media, particularly electronic games or the Internet,” (Taylor, 2006: 168). With a grim reality surrounding them, Japanese people (particularly youth) sought out the fictional worlds digital media presented them. Yet, what of the older generation still bound by traditional values? How could parents adjust to a lost decade where promises of peace and stability were betrayed? Despite Japan’s drive for liberalism, gender roles during the era became far more exacerbated than before. The economic climate promoted more dependence on a working husband. Women’s responsibilities over full-time child-rearing became burdensome (Sugimoto, 2010: 160, 171). Housewives’ isolated lifestyle in metropolitan areas neglected by her husband combined with the turbulent, violent events conspiring daily caused a great deal of stress. Sugimoto notes that women then suffered from a “mother-pathogenic disease’” where her anxieties lead to neurotic behaviour which damaged the child’s mental health (2010: 184). For instance, mothers become over-protective, obsessing over the child’s school marks with them experiencing psychosomatic symptoms (stomach-aches), social anxiety (school phobia) or even autism as a result. Despite the father acting as the main income provider, his absence from home contributed to his dependents’ distress. The husband’s neglect of over child-rearing stemmed from a highly demanding lifetime employment system (Preyde, 2019: 44). Long work hours combined with a competitive salary where the threat of entrenchment loomed over his shoulders pressured the father to spend more time at work, in hopes of a promotion to a position with welfare benefits. Nevertheless, the salaryman’s job security was constantly at threat, his dedication to working over the family worsened household, with mother and child reaping the consequences. An eternal bond between them was present throughout history. Traditional gender roles defined women as primary caregivers, tying them to the household through religious obligation. Buddhism in Medieval Japan spread the belief that mother and child were conjoined entities, losing ownership over the child after they had grown. Women thus functioned as corporate value for noble families (Glassman, 2008). In other words, they were transactions. Childbirth then was life-threatening because the soon-to-be heir was a foetus in the womb. If women who aborted or killed the child, or they had died during pregnancy, society saw them as impure. Water’s link with motherhood became a violent tool that socially and biologically ostracized females who lost their child during birth. “The salvation offered women within the Sino-Buddhist cult of ancestors is salvation as mothers—that is, salvation by virtue of the very biological potential that would come to spell their doom,” (Glassman 2008: 177). Since female bodies were viewed as vessels, women who failed bearing children were sinners. Glassman notes that women who miscarried or aborted children in 16th century Japan were condemned to drowning in an underworld filled with lakes of menstrual blood (Glassman 2008). Additionally, The Ketsubonkyō (Blood-bowl Sutra) proposed liberation from hell was possible. After struggling to find his mother in tenkai (heaven) Buddha’s disciple Mokuren used his supernatural powers to descend into hell and rescue her. Suffering from eternal hunger with every attempt at feeding her futile, Mokuren turns to Buddha for advice. His advice is a festive celebration of food-offering now known as Obon ( Nichiren Shu Portal, n.d.). Nonetheless, Ketsubonkyō corrupts women and water for the sake of patriarchal beliefs. Water in Japanese horror cinema is associated with chaos and impurity (Balmain, 2008: 171). In Dark Water, shots of mould, rust, heavy rain, and flooding overwhelm recently divorced Yoshimi and her daughter Itsuko who have just moved in. To figure out the source of these strange occurrences happening around them, Yoshimi ventures upstairs, discovering that leak damaging her home is not on account of harsh weather but by a malevolent spirit. Davisson explains that yūrei are“spirits of the departed – both symbols of the past reaching a cold, dead, and often unwelcomed hand into the comfortable present,” (2015: 11). Yūrei disrupt everyday reality, often to the point where their last painful moments on earth playout. Mitsuko, who previously inhibited the unit a floor up from Yoshimi’s, was left unsupervised by her mother, spending time up on the rooftop. Her red bag fell into the water tower while playing, she reached in trying to retrieve it but drown as a result. Water therefore represents failed maternal responsibility over a child similarly to the Ketsubonkyō. Additionally, Mitsuko targets Yoshimi precisely because Yoshimi has left Itsuko unsupervised. Mitsuko befriends Itsuko whose closely resemble each other, from being socially isolated at school, fatherless to spending little time with their working mothers. Mitsuko later causes the various plumbing issues in the apartment, draws Ikuko toward the water tower she had drowned in, all to torment Yoshimi’s poor mothering. Until Yoshimi assumes better responsibility, Mitsuko will not cease disturbing them. According to Foster, yūrei arebound to the location where they had died (Foster 2015).

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Van Gogh the Original Weeb

It’s not often you associate Vincent van Gogh — the tortured Dutch genius of Starry Night fame — with anime fans in Pikachu hoodies. But standing in front of Utagawa Hiroshige’s woodblock prints this weekend, I realised something: Van Gogh was, in many ways, the original weeb. In the 19th century, Japan had just re-opened to the West after over two centuries of isolation. Japanese woodblock prints — known as ukiyo-e — flooded Europe, captivating artists who were tired of rigid academic painting. Among the most enchanted was Van Gogh, who not only collected hundreds of prints but also integrated their style directly into his own work. Take his Flowering Plum Orchard (after Hiroshige), a near-direct copy of one of Hiroshige’s prints. Or The Bridge in the Rain (after Hiroshige), where Van Gogh even emulated the Japanese calligraphy with squiggled nonsense in the borders to mimic the original. This wasn’t casual inspiration — this was earnest, obsessive homage. In his letters to his brother Theo, Van Gogh wrote passionately about Japan as an artistic utopia. “All my work is based to some extent on Japanese art,” he declared, imagining Japanese artists as monks, spiritually attuned to nature, colour, and simplicity. He fantasised about going to Japan, believing it to be a land of light, harmony, and pure artistic expression. His mental image bore little resemblance to reality — but isn’t that true of many modern Japanophiles? Like today’s weebs romanticising Tokyo as a land of cherry blossoms and 24-hour vending machines, Van Gogh fell in love with an ideal. But his obsession bore fruit: the Japanese influence sharpened his colour palette, flattened his perspective, and helped break with Western tradition. Reflecting on his 1888 drawing The Countryside along the Shore of the Rhone Seen from Montmajour, Van Gogh wrote to Emile Bernard: “An immense flat expanse of country — seen in bird’s-eye view from the top of a hill… streaming away like the surface of a sea towards the horizon… It doesn’t look Japanese, and yet it’s the most Japanese thing I’ve ever made.” He may not have owned a body pillow or cosplayed at Comic Con, but Van Gogh’s immersion in Japanese aesthetics, his idealisation of Japanese life, and his fan-like devotion to its art mark him as a proto-weeb. Just swap Hiroshige for Hayao Miyazaki, and it’s not so different. So next time you see someone getting misty-eyed over Kyoto or buying a katana on Etsy, remember: Van Gogh walked so they could Naruto-run.

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The Magic of Japanese Romance Dramas

Anime remains the most popular content on streaming platforms worldwide. Valued at US$24 billion,1 anime makes up 45% of content viewed on premium video-on-demand services, with Japanese live-action only being 22%. 2 Audiences rarely view Japanese television shows, with niche titles such as Hibana: Spark (2016)and Alice in Borderland (2020) gaining attention. Older programs by local stations that differ vastly in quality are often neglected. This article argues that romantic dramas represent Japan better than anime by examining how its depiction of love as a thrilling, “magical” experience appealed to young audiences’ desires successfully through various production design choices and genre conventions throughout their brief history. Romance dramas emerged in two phases during the late 80s and early 90s. “Trendy” dramas that appeared in 1985 highlighted popular lifestyles of the bubble economy. Viewership declined due to mismatched preferences between producers and audiences. Kitazawa (2012) explains that youth’s interest for jidaigeki and Japanese history was poor, resulting in a generational gap between them and aging viewers who grow up fond of these heavily masculine genres. 3 Women in their 20s were eventually identified as a potential target audience that could increase ratings. Unfortunately, they discovered that instead of watching television, women spent their time in restaurants, bars, cafes, and hotels. Stations and sponsors later co-operated in creating love stories featuring lavish apartments, designer fashion, sports cars, all set in Tokyo. Furthermore, theme songs sung by iconic musicians of the time were part of a strategy to capture the hearts of these women, who often starred in lead roles. Trendy dramas placed more emphasis on character relationships, dialogue and performance with plots tending to be relatively straight forward, creating a light-hearted, artificial microcosm that avoided depicting troublesome familial and social dynamics. 4 In other words, trendy dramas avoided portraying the difficulties of love faithfully, placing less importance on realism than on romantic thrills. To illustrate, stories always had love triangles between a beautiful main heroine, an attractive supporting character, and a simple-minded hero who held affluent jobs in entertainment, news, arts, or sales. Suspense arose from who the hero would choose in the end. Heroines were either a friend, colleague, or past lover, who both try to get the male lead. The male support also stirs trouble; a womanizer who may get either heroine but eventually cheats on them with someone else. Depending on the show’s overall ratings across its three-month broadcast over a designated time slot varying per station (e.g. Monday 9PM for Fuji TV), the story could conclude with the hero marrying the heroine or sub-heroine. Another part of the “magic” were dramatic moments such as confessions, kisses, or breakups that utilized pop music to “magnify characters’ feelings and encourage identification.” 5 Idols in these scenes elevated the commercial viability for promotional campaigns. Sponsors also wanted more brand recognition. Costumes, makeup, and sets were stylish, glamorous, and overly decorative, paired with vibrant lighting and lush colours. Coupled with extreme wide shots of Tokyo’s various sightseeing spots and closeups of gorgeous stars, trendy dramas were no different from advertisements. Ultimately, these shows were successful only in an economically prosperous era. The bubble was soon to burst, and audiences grew tired of these highly consumerist depictions of modern life that they found superficial. In response, producers and writers turned their efforts toward genuine characters and a more realistic depiction of Tokyo. As Former Fuji TV producer Ōta Tōru (2010) states, “our strategy was to drive the audience to be deeply involved in the romance by making it look realistic and unattainable.” 6 After he released Tokyo Love Story (1991), thepure love boom began. Again, the attractive features trendy dramas had were kept but held less importance than the gradual development of the cast as they navigate complex relationships. Ōta aimed to “really make the audience sympathize with the character and weep for her,” abandoning happy endings for tragic ones because “the surprising fact is that a lot of the female viewers are living unhappily in real life. Somehow the viewers would feel disappointed when the drama heroine wins her love.” 7 The hero and heroine inpure love dramas rarely got together — a trip abroad, a marriage with another character, sickness or death separates them forever. “Magic” here is a painful, moving experience that speaks volumes about the various intricacies associated with falling in love. Tokyo Love Story’s writer Sakamoto Yuuji exemplifies this, while Kitagawa Eriko rather “privileges falling-in-love as… uncompromising, vital, and liberating.” 8 For female viewers, love is a transformative process of self-affirmation. Other noteworthy writers include Nojima Shinji and Okada Yoshikazu who all stylistically humanized characters on-screen through deeper explorations of romance. Unfortunately, pure love dramas could not persist any longer. Yamato Nadeshiko (2000) was marketed as the last trendy drama of the century years after the economic bubble burst. Broadcaster later had a newfound interest in darker, plot-heavy mysteries. The “magic” wore off. Nevertheless, romance dramas successfully appealed to younger female viewers with various storytelling devices, production choices and casting decisions. Love stories in the city where characters led glamorous lifestyles were at the forefront, but audiences found it too shallow. Pure love dramas arrived, which depicted romance earnestly, making viewers sympathize and identify with characters. These stories became sensations not just in Japan, but also in Taiwan, Singapore, Malaysia, South Korea, and Hong Kong. 9 Fortunately, romance dramas are now accessible outside of Asia. Although limited, popular romance dramas on Netflix are available in multiple languages as per a deal with Fuji TV. 10 Hopefully, this article encourages Japanese learners to turn away from anime momentarily, exposing themselves to a vital part of Japan’s creative economy. Moreover, dramas depict broader socio-cultural aspects of Japanese life in a way animation cannot readily portray. Lastly, romantic dramas prove that love is a universal language that transcends national borders, understood by us all. Pure Love Dramas available on Netflix: References: About Me: Holding a Bachelor of Arts in Motion Picture, film, television, mass media & popular culture are at

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Wagashi: Japan’s Sweet Little Wonders

When it comes to sweets, very few countries turn dessert into an art form quite like Japan, and wagashi are its shining stars. These traditional Japanese confections, often served with tea, are as much about aesthetics and symbolism as they are about taste. But what makes these treats so special? Let’s dive into the delightful world of wagashi!      A Feast for the Eyes Wagashi are miniature works of art, often inspired by the seasons. From sakura blossoms in spring to crimson maple leaves in autumn, these sweets beautifully reflect nature’s changing landscape. Crafted from ingredients like mochi (rice cake), anko (sweet red bean paste), and kanten (agar jelly), wagashi are moulded, painted, and sculpted with painstaking precision. They’re so beautiful that eating them can feel almost sacrilegious—almost. (Image from EatCookExplore.com) Not Just Sweet, But Symbolic Each wagashi carries a story. Some represent good luck or prosperity, while others are tied to cultural festivals. Take hanabira mochi, traditionally eaten during New Year, symbolising renewal and harmony. Or taiyaki, a fish-shaped pastry often filled with red bean paste, symbolising luck and fortune. These treats aren’t just delicious—they’re meaningful. Perfect Pairings Wagashi are typically enjoyed with matcha—the rich, slightly bitter powdered green tea. The sweetness of wagashi balances the tea’s astringency, creating a harmonious flavour profile that’s quintessentially Japanese. This pairing is a staple of traditional tea ceremonies, where every detail, down to the wagashi, is a carefully curated experience. Modern Takes on Tradition While wagashi have deep historical roots, they’ve evolved over time. Modern wagashi may include unexpected flavours like chocolate or coffee or come in quirky shapes, such as characters from anime. This blend of tradition and innovation ensures wagashi remain popular in contemporary Japan and beyond. Why Try Wagashi? Whether you’re a foodie, an art lover, or simply someone with a sweet tooth, wagashi offer a unique way to experience Japanese culture. Their exquisite craftsmanship and delicate flavours are a reminder to slow down and savour life’s small pleasures. So next time you spot these colourful confections, don’t just marvel—take a bite. After all, nothing tastes as good as edible art!

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A Virtual Visit to a Japanese Shrine

Have you ever visited a Shinto shrine in Japan? If not, this article will make you feel as if you just did! I distinctly remember one of the first shrines I visited in Japan. South of Tokyo, in an area known as Kamakura, lies Tsurugaoka Hachimangu. Those who have visited Kamakura may know it for the beaches and the famous Buddha, sites I did indeed see (I fondly remember wandering around the Buddha in awe). I was visiting a friend who was studying in Tokyo, and as it was my first time in Japan, I was keen to see the sights and experience the country. The shrine grounds were large, with a long walkway leading up to the main area, gardens and smaller shrines flanking on each side. The architecture and the atmosphere fascinated me, and we explored the area for what seemed like hours. Little did I know that that would be a catalyst for my interest in shrines and religion, leading to a multi-year global adventure, from Seattle, to Tokyo, to London. Shinto is one of the main religions in Japan. Its definition has been up for heavy debate, some call it ‘indigenous’, while others say that you can’t even call it a religion. In essence, Shinto is an animistic belief that there are deities, or ‘kami’, residing in the natural world, from the trees, to the rocks and the sea, and their relationship with people. Shrine grounds are sacred spaces and the enshrined deity varies from shrine to shrine. At Tsurugaoka Hachimangu, the deity is Hachiman, the god of war and warriors; at Fushimi Inari shrines, known for their long rows of torii gates, the deity is Inari, the god of agriculture, industry, and other practices. Shinto Shrines are eponymous with Japan. With their distinct red (but not always!) torii gates and architecture, they stand out from the cityscape and the skyscrapers that dominate Japan’s cities. There are nearly 80,000 shrines within the country, all unique in their own right. From a shrine dedicated to the weather to one for passing your school exams, if you want luck or good faith towards any pursuit, there will be a shrine for it. As you approach a shrine you’ll notice the large torii gate first. It signifies that you are stepping into sacred ground, the ground of the kami. Tradition states that you bow before the gate and make sure to walk on either the right or the left side of it, as the centre is reserved for the kami! As you walk the main grounds, or ‘keidai’, you’ll see statues of guard dogs known as ‘komainu’, lanterns, and other decorations around the area. You’ll notice large ropes tied around trees, and other objects, these are known as ‘shimenawa’, and are used as wards against evil and signifiers of a kami in dwelling. Shrines are usually embedded within green space (see Meiji Jingu in the heart of Tokyo as an example), however with the industrialisation and development of large cities, more and more shrines are found dwarfed by concrete and steel. Sometimes you may even find a torii inside a shopping mall! You’ll soon approach the ‘honden’, or the inner sanctuary of the shrine. This is where you’ll be able to donate money and make a prayer or wish. However, before you do this you must purify yourself at what is called the ‘temizuya’.  You grab a small wooden ladle in your right hand, scoop some water and pour it over your left. Switching hands, you then pour the water over your right hand. Again you pour water into your left hand and bring it up to your mouth. You don’t need to drink it but it signifies that you are purifying yourself nonetheless. Lastly you pour water again over your left hand and raise the ladle up so the remaining water cleans the ladle. It sounds confusing, but once learned you never forget! After purification, you can approach the honden and make a donation. Most people donate 5 yen coins because of the luck associated with the word, in Japanese ‘goen’ can mean ‘5 yen’, but also ‘fate’ or ‘relationship’. You throw the coin into the donation box, or ‘saisenbako’, and then ring a bell that overhangs the box. This alerts the kami to your presence. Now you are finally ready to make your wish. The traditional way to make a wish is to bow twice, clap your hands twice, keeping your hands together after the second clap, and then making your wish. After the wish is made, you bow once more and turn away from the honden. Now you’ve done it! Your first ‘omairi’, or shrine visit. However, it does not end here. Once you’ve finished your visit, you can head over to the ‘juyosho’ and pick up some shrine goods and trinkets. Shrines offer a large selection of unique goods tailored to the shrine and the kami enshrined in the honden. One popular piece is known as an ‘ema’, or votive tablet. Usually adorned with patterns that relate to the shrine, with an ema you write another wish on it and leave it hung up at a specific part of the shrine ground. People also take them home as souvenirs. Another popular good is called an ‘omamori’. These small bags contain written prayers for various causes, such as good luck, good health, passing exams, or even mountain climbing. Traditionally you keep the omamori on your person or backpack, ensuring that the good luck will stay with you. It is also common to return the omamori after a year to the shrine you got it from as the luck is supposed to run out after a year. Many shrines hold festivals during the new year, burning the old offerings as thanks for the protection that they gave during the previous year. However there is nothing wrong with keeping your omamori longer, especially as many tourists do not have the opportunity to come back after a year.

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